Regarding menswear collections, i believe that this was a really hot and interesting season with several exciting designs. However, if i had to choose, i would vote Sruli Recht's collection as the best one and him as one of my favourite new designers.
After his very succesful collection for this Fall, Sruli returns with a second even more brilliant and well-structured, complete menswear line titled Cast by Shadows.
The collection is inspired by the view outside Sruli's window: water, mountains and mist, the typical Icelandic landscape that always gives a special character to his creations.
Consisting of 44 styles, the line includes all the essential garments to create a total look from coats, jackets and cardigans, to trousers, shorts and leggings fully accessorized with sandals, eye-frames, bags, hats, gloves and silver jewellery, all made in Iceland.
The material selection comes from nature, as in his previous collection, with linen, cotton, silk and timber complimented with Icelandic reindeer skin, horse skin and shark skin, while the colour palette is kept quite with cream, white, light grey and navy blue.
All garments are created in-house with the usage of special sewing techniques and advanced technology, most of them constructed from one pattern piece and one piece of material. A typical design of this special process is the Fourteen Years jacket, named after the culmination of the designer's 14-year patternmaking experience, constructed with one single side seam.
Closing this piece about Sruli Recht's new summer collection, i couldn't resist but post this beautiful poetic passage featured in his press release which i loved:
tireless tireless, oh endless black swimming
ceaseless and breakless in these ever dark currents
and these excellent hard gestures of the minimal stark winnings?
for the half shark, half man - that is the motion’s beginnings
...and lost in the spinning, hard swells in the deep end
sharp spells where I descend, I feint to defend,
and start to ascend
for that is the devotion, of the half stark wired man
the inflicted warm presence of the needles’ marked measure.
these moments I treasure. and the others - forced to surrender
bang bang, on my chest, the emotional slang where it rests.
these moments I treasure.
and the others - forced to surrender
bang bang, on my chest,
the emotional slang where it rests.
Photographer - Marinó Thorlacius
Models - Emil Þór Guðmundsson, Helgi Hjörvar
Stylist - Megan Herbert
Lookbook Layout - wearenotyou
srulirecht.com
showroomromeo.com
